On the road to Wick
Well, Lill and I got up bright and early on Wednesday morning, said farewell to my cousins Donald, Chriss Anna and Jonathan and headed to the Caledonia MacBrayne ferry terminal in Stornoway.
The next few paragraphs are a bit sentimental so feel free to skip past this if you are short of Kleenex, don't have an absorbent wool sleeve or lack an especially hairy arm.
Here we go - Leaving Lewis
I can't count the number of times I have been to the Isle of Lewis over the years. Dozens of times no doubt and though I love being on the island, I dread leaving. I have done it time and time again and it never get any easier, never gets less emotional. My parents, like so many other Scots, emigrated to Canada with family in tow looking for a better life. As an experienced soldier and piper, my father signed up with the Black Watch Royal Highland Regiment in Nova Scotia and or the next 20 years or so we had the good fortune to live in both Kentville and North Alton Nova Scotia as well as Oromocto New Brunswick (twice), Werl and Unna Germany, Petawawa and Ottawa Ontario.
After university, Lill and I picked up what little belongings we had and built a great life for ourselves in Canada's Northwest Territories, northern Alberta, Edmonton and finally here in Ottawa. With that much moving (25 moves before age 40) and few direct relatives anywhere in this vast land, it was understandably difficult to feel a sense of belonging to any one place. Still, Canada is such a beautiful country and we were so grateful that we were able to make our lives here and to raise our families. Still, Lewis is where the heart is and I know peace intimately when I can see and smell the moors, feel the coolness of the land and walk the shores. There is an expression in Gaelic "Is fhearr tiene beag a gharas na teine mor a loisgeas" - The little fire that warms is better than the big fire that burns. So, though we make our lives circling the big fire - the hustle and bustle of a modern city - I faithfully guard and tend the embers of that little fire inside and always will. I find it so tough to leave.
Anyway, Wednesday morning with the bike piled high, we crossed the Minch to Ullapool and once on the mainland, were hit with heavy rain and windy conditions. Decision time - do we ignore sound advice and take the northern route or do we head for the scenic route around Loch Shin. The third option (the one most sane people would choose) would take us south on good highways before turning north to Wick. But we were here to see the countryside and point to point speed was subordinate - waaay subordinate. Discretion being the better part of valour, we decided to avoid the northern route in the rain and winds and go for the more scenic route through the highlands and past some great whiskey making countryside - a happy coincidence I assure you...
The road across this part of the highlands is tricky with many miles of single track (one car at a time with lay-bys to let an on-coming vehicle pass). It makes for and interesting dance, rush forward, pull to the side, slow to a near stop, wave thanks and repeat about 100 times. All the while, you are seeing spectacular scenery around every corner with long abandoned castles, sturdy stone bridges and gently flowing river with fly fishermen casting their lucky bait. You get so engrossed in the beauty that you sometimes forget about "lay-by ho-down" and I had to stand the BMW on its front wheel a couple of times.Stopped in to get a cup of tea and to warm up in a small town called Bonar Bridge. What a lovely little town it is. If you are ever through there, try out the Crannag Bistro - Ian Smith proprietor. Great atmosphere, terrific food and very friendly people. Their advice on single malts was bang on!
Once we went through the highlands we hit the A9 to Wick which goes up the east coast of Scotland and again, all you can say is WOW! In the distance, you can see the off-shore oil platforms of North Sea and if you expand this pic you can even see the ocean-based wind turbines used to augment the power requirements of these floating villages. The rain lifted once we hit the east coast road and we drove or quite a while with just whisps of clouds in the sky and periodic showers - just enough to refresh the windscreen. Beautiful drive!We arrived in Wick in the early afternoon and had a police escort (story for another day) to my cousin George and Ann's place where we stayed for the night. What great hosts they were too! The next day we all went to the community of John O'Groats who claim to be the most northerly community on mainland Scotland (as if the Orkneys and Shetlands don't matter - sheesh!)
With the weather becoming unsettled, we said goodbye and headed off south to Inverness. I am certain that one day, we will be back up to the north to explore some more and will make out way up to the famous Orkneys...home of the Highland Park distillery!!! Excellent distilleries in like the Glenmorangie in Tain and the Old Pulteney in Wick


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